Friday, September 28, 2007

Setting In A Sleeve

If you sew, you appreciate the effort required to set in a fitted sleeve. If you don't sew, then you may not realize how much more effort is required for such a task, than, say, a peasant top sleeve. Peasant top sleeve edges and the peasant bodice edges are shaped exactly the same - just lay them together & sew the curve. Fitted sleeves are more complicated - the sleeve is a tall hill, the shoulder where it is attached is exactly the opposite, a valley... why would a creative person want to attempt such an engineering-minded task??

The result is worth it - a tailored look and a well-made garment.

Thank you, Mom, for teaching me to set in a sleeve. I hated it when you were teaching me , it was tedious & boring, and I really didn't do such a good job at the time. Of course I was about 13, so that came with the territory, I guess - sorry about that, Mom.

Now, there are other directions I've seen, such as running a basting stitch on the sleeve to ease it around the curve. And some would do it with the underarm seam already sewn - now that's just making it even harder. This is the way I know, and even though it only took 33 pins this time around (sometimes it takes many more), the technique is worth it. I'm used to it now, having done it many times, and I thought it would be fun to show off a work in progress.

Here it is, the underside/lining of the sleeve is facing you, pinned to the armhole.

And here it is sewn, having progressed at a very slow speed so as to allow for removal of pins and shifting of fabric every few stitches.

And finally, I turned it right side out so you could see the general idea of what it is you've been looking at, although it hadn't been ironed or understitched yet.

I serged the seam, and then went to make some Crazy Crust Pizza with Canadian Bacon, Pepperoni & Onions for dinner - a savory reward!

And for the curious reader, this champagne silk holiday design should be making it's debut this coming week during a special Lilyplum launch...

1 comment:

Hannah R said...

I had been searching for ways to set in sleeves online when I stumbled upon your post- I had actually thought about this technique after examining some store-bought blouses which appear to use the same method. It's just reassuring to know that it works!
Thanks and God Bless!